Day #4: Aswan...

Day #4, November 7th

The train ia antique old. The wagon and the seats, though very comfortable because very large, seemed like they never got fixed or cleaned since original construction, but overall not any dirtier than the Paris metro or Moroccan train.

The ride was long, very long...especially this morning. However, the magnificent sunrise over the fields of sugar totally made up for it all. But it was still a long 15 hour ride. The dynamic of late overnight train is often the same, people are tired and just looking forward for the train to take off so they can remove their shoes and fall asleep. Very much the same as overnight flights. So my next seat neighbour and i did not actually exchange a word until arrival. And to his big surprise, i was not Egyptian, but a foreigner. lol

Great thing was that right outside the train station in Aswan, i found an extremely helpful tourist information center. Mr Hakim was so kind and welcoming, i couldn't believe it, almost as if barely anyone ever showed up so he was dying to interact with a foreigner and actually perform his job. Lucky me. I quickly ask about different prices in order to get some references for incoming bargaining, and off i go to Elephantine island where i had previously spotted online what seemed to be a decent guest house on the bank of the Nile.

i had read so many raving comments online about Aswan that my expectations were very high. I know, i always make the same mistake of having expectations. Something i have tried hard to work on throughout my travels. Making more progress each time. But thus far, not very impressive at all. Aside from being on the Nile river, and  with numerous felucca sail boats (parked) all over, and as many huge old cruise boats, Aswan is very a “modern” city. Though i must admit that the giant West bank sand dune where the tombs of the nobles are gives the place quite charm.

i walk a good 20 minutes before i find and hop on the small ferry boat to cross over to the island. Though Aswan is supposed to be a touristy place, i am still being stared at as if i were from a different planet.

I finally step foot on the island. It is right away a totally different vibe. A vibe that instantly makes your face smile. As i am walking through the island, the guest house i had spotted was called Baba Dool and located on the far north-west end of the island, it reminded me soooo much of Gorée island off of the coast of Dakar. Beautiful trees, kids everywhere, bright colorful walls and houses, very old houses, in pour condition for the most part. But jaw dropping little dirt alleys, making a maze through the island, making me want to keep on walking all day. On the east side, you face Aswan and its noise, concrete city infrastructure and pollution. On the west side, all you hear are birds and kids laughs. Two worlds apart. According to the internet, the whole island only has three guest houses (for “adventurous” travellers), and a gigantic gated Movenpick resort (with its own ferry and docs, hence its guests pretty much never wander around the island). So i don't see a single other foreigner on this island.

I finally found, by luck, my guest house. bright colours, but extremely rustic. I love it. And it is run by a Nubian family. The kindest hostesses ever, so happy to interact with foreigners.

The place has one other foreigner. A young british guy named Dominic. Cool guy on his 3rd or 4th month of his 10 month around the world trip. He had never travelled before and decided to start with the Middle East. Rough first leg of his trip given the strong cultural and religious differences.

In order to make the best use of my time, i decided to attend the sound and light show at the famous Philae temple on another island further south.

Quick shower and off i go before sunset. Sun sets at about 5:15pm, and ticket office opens at 6pm, before taking a small boat to get to the temple island. Lucky me i arrived very early, and on time for the sunset. So before buying my ticket, to the surprise of the ticket people and the local guards, i decided to hike up the hill to the small local village behind to try and find a spot to sit down and watch the sun setting over the dam and the whole bay. I get continuous stares as this hill village is definitely not a place anyone would think of going ever. From below it shows no interest whatsoever.

Up there i find this little sandy and clean terrasse, under a beautiful tree, overlooking the whole bay. Could not have found a better panorama spot. But it is a private terrasse. My luck again, as i am approaching, a man comes out of the house. Big smile, and invites me to sit down with him on his old wooden bench under the tree and face the sun set. His name is Saber. His wife brings me a glass of tea while he starts smoking a shisha. He doesn't speak a word of English. We smile. His brother in law, much older, joins us. He speaks decent English. Decent enough to have conversations about world politics, religion, and family. Priceless moment. The kind of moment i live for. The kind of moment that make any trip worth it. Forget about temples, must see places, must eat foods, etc...without such moment, why even travel.

The sun is setting. The moment is perfect. The view is spectacular. The energy magical. I tell them that they are lucky to live in heaven. They must think i am crazy as for them Europe is heaven. I suppose we are both right. After all, heaven is actually a series of moment and what you make of each moment.

Time flies, it is already 6:15pm. I still need to hike my way down, in total darkness, and without any actual trail or steps, buy my ticket and negotiate a boat ride. I am torn, but i have to bid farewell and above all, thank them for the amazing moment.

I sprained my knee on the down. Ouch! I guess my mind was still on that heavenly terrasse. Be conscious of the moment Greg,and focus on your steps!

I found another foreigner (Sudanese guy living in the UK) to join me in negotiating the boat ride.

The ride to the island is really cool. Total darkness, no light. As if trying to approach the island illegally.

The show is not bad. Not amazing, but worth the trip. Actually the series of moments since leaving the guest house make it totally worth it. I initially had no intention to see this temple, but am so grateful that Mr Hakim recommended it.

It has been a very long 24 hours. I am dead beat. Bed time for me. Thank you life.